The Cartier Santos 100 launched in 2004 to mark one hundred years of the original 1904 Santos, the wristwatch Louis Cartier built for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. Cartier retired the reference around 2017, making way for the reworked Santos de Cartier in 2018. Every Santos 100 on the market today is pre-owned, which makes provenance, condition and the quality of any aftermarket customisation the only things that matter. At Time 4 Diamonds we stock factory-condition and bespoke examples across every case size, with a particular depth in the Large W20073X8 and the XL Chronograph W20090X8.
A discontinued Cartier icon
Thirteen years of production left a broad range of Santos 100 variants behind: stainless steel, two-tone, yellow and rose gold, ADLC-coated Carbon editions, skeletonised models and flying tourbillons. Because Cartier stopped making them, the pre-owned market is now the only market, and the better references are getting harder to find in good condition. Most Santos 100 watches use ETA-based automatic calibres, with the XL Chronograph running on a Valjoux 7750 base. Later models moved to the in-house calibre 1847 MC.
Santos 100 sizes and reference numbers
Buyers regularly confuse the four main case formats. The table below covers the dimensions, the most commonly traded reference numbers and the movement inside each.
| Size | Case Dimensions | Common Reference | Movement |
|---|---|---|---|
| Medium | ~35.6mm square | W20106X7 family | ETA-based automatic |
| Large | 51.1mm x 41.3mm | W20073X8 | ETA 2892-based automatic |
| XL Chronograph | 55mm x 42mm | W20090X8 | Valjoux 7750-based automatic |
| XL Skeleton / Tourbillon | 46.5mm | Various, in-house calibres | Cartier calibres 9611 MC, 9612 MC |
If you are sourcing a specific reference that is not in the grid above, our watch sourcing team can track one down globally.
Bespoke diamond-set Cartier Santos 100
Our in-house workshop customises the Santos 100 with VS1 diamond setting on the case, bezel and clasp, diamond-pavé dials in white or black with Roman numeral or Panthère motifs and hand-finished alligator straps in black, brown, red and blue. Every bespoke piece is stress-tested and returned with Time 4 Diamonds papers and a twelve-month warranty. You can see the full range of customisation options on our bespoke watches page or commission a specific design via the customise your watch service.
Straps, dials and replacement parts
The Santos 100 uses case-specific spring bars and end-link geometry, so generic straps rarely sit correctly. We supply and fit genuine and custom Cartier parts, including replacement Cartier dials for all three Santos 100 sizes and Cartier straps cut to the correct width for the Medium, Large and XL cases. Servicing is handled in-house by our watchmakers via our Cartier watch servicing team.
Buying a pre-owned Cartier Santos 100
Every Santos 100 we sell is inspected, authenticated and where necessary serviced before it leaves the London showroom. Each watch ships with Time 4 Diamonds papers, a presentation box and a twelve-month warranty. We have been trading in pre-owned and customised luxury watches since 2005 and work with clients across the UK, Europe and the Middle East. If the specific reference or configuration you want is not currently listed, message us on WhatsApp or call us on +44 20 7043 2598.
Cartier Santos 100 FAQs
Is the Cartier Santos 100 discontinued?
Yes. Cartier ended production of the Santos 100 around 2017 and launched the reworked Santos de Cartier in 2018. Only pre-owned examples remain available.
What is the difference between the Santos 100 and the Santos de Cartier?
The Santos 100 has a fully square bezel with visible screws and uses separate leather straps or metal bracelets. The 2018 Santos de Cartier has a curved bezel that flows into an integrated bracelet with Cartier's QuickSwitch and SmartLink system. The new large model is 39.8mm x 47.5mm, noticeably smaller than the Santos 100 Large at 51.1mm x 41.3mm.
What sizes does the Cartier Santos 100 come in?
Four main formats: Medium at around 35.6mm square, Large at 51.1mm x 41.3mm, XL Chronograph at 55mm x 42mm and XL Skeleton or Tourbillon variants at around 46.5mm.
How much is a Cartier Santos 100 worth in 2026?
Pre-owned pricing varies widely by reference, condition and configuration. Steel Santos 100 Large models typically trade in the mid four figures, XL Chronographs sit higher, and skeletonised or tourbillon variants can run well into five figures. Bespoke diamond-set examples are priced individually. Contact us for a current quote on any specific reference.
