Post Contents:
On the 13th of November, the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève(GPHG) Awards 2025 will commence which is the horological world’s biggest awards show featuring some of the world’s greatest and under-appreciated watch brands competing to win many awards. Formed in 2001, the GPHG Awards has acquired quite a reputation, known as the “Oscars for watches.”
When discussing each award or category, we will display what GPHG are looking for along with our personal favourite watches that have been nominated with a final prediction of who we think will win the specific award. Examples of the categories include the best Men’s Watch, Ladies’ Watch, Iconic and many more so here are the finalists.
Ladies’ Watch:
Specification: "feminine watches comprising the following indications only – hours, minutes, seconds, date (day of the month), power reserve indicator, classic moon phases – and that may potentially be adorned with a maximum 9-carat gemsetting."
Prediction: Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence Platinum
Favourite Watches & Round-up: This Ladies’ Watch award features some really interesting pieces, three in particular that have caught our attention. These are the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Mini Frosted, Louis Vuitton Convergence Platinum and the Piaget Sixtie. In creating a ladies’ watch, Audemars Piguet has smashed it with the Mini Frosted but the Piaget Sixtie defines femininity displaying elegance and class. But, the Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence is our winner with stunning small diamonds set into the platinum face and a unique time display which challenges conventions.
Ladies’ Complication
Specification: "feminine watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These watches may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications (e.g. annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phases, tourbillon, chronograph, world time, dual time or other types of model) and do not fit the definition of the Ladies' and Mechanical Exception categories."
Prediction: Hermés Cut Le temps suspendu
Favourite Watches & Round-up: There is only one clear winner for this year’s Ladies’ Complication watch and that is the Hérmes Cut Le temps suspendu. This is quite an underwhelming and disappointing category. Whilst the Hérmes piece might not be the most compelling piece, it is at least the most feminine watch carrying an innovative “time suspended” complication, achieved through a pusher on the left side of the case. The rest of the nominations may show complication but are not aesthetically pleasing at all and do not nail the first two words of the brief. How were Jacob & Co. even nominated for this award?
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 38mm
Key Features:
- ✓Case: 38mm sand gold case
- ✓Movement: Calibre 2968
- ✓Dial: Sand gold-toned dial
- ✓Strap: A beige alligator strap with a diamond-set sand gold folding clasp
Time Only
Specification:"watches displaying only analogue time indications (hours, minutes, seconds) by means of two or three hands on a solid dial, devoid of any other type of indication, complications or gemsetting."
Prediction: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold
Favourite Watches & Round-up: Bar the Ming Project 21, there are really solid nominations for this awards yet we can’t take our eyes off the Daniel Roth Extra Plat in rose gold. Parmigiani Fleurier has created a versatile sporty time only piece whilst Piaget has produced a timeless classic. The RP2 by Raùl Pagès is our close second to Daniel Roth’s beautiful revival of the Extra Plat who we predict will be the winner of the Time Only award.
Men’s
Specification: masculine watches comprising the following indications only – hours, minutes, seconds, date (day of the month), power reserve indicator, classic moon phases – and that may potentially feature a digital/retrograde display or be adorned with a maximum 9-carat gemsetting.
Prediction: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV
Favourite Watches & Round-up: The Men' s award is also a very competitive category, possibly the most with this being anyone’s chance to win. Grand Seiko has created the most accurate wristwatch powered by a mainspring, Zenith has revived the G.F.J. Calibre 135 in such a captivating way but Chopard is our winner, producing one of the best time-and-date watches in recent years.
Men’s Complication
Specification: masculine watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These watches may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications (e.g. world time, dual time, annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phases display or other types of model) and do not fit the definition of the Men’s and Mechanical Exception categories.
Prediction: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantieme Perpetuel
Favourite Watches & Round-up: Coming off two extremely competitive and very exciting categories in the Time Only and Men’s awards, we have one of the most underwhelming categories. That’s not to say these are awful watches because they’re not at all. Maybe this category has been ruined by Vacheron Constantin who made the most complicated wristwatch ever with this year’s release of the Solaria but as mentioned in the introduction of this article, Vacheron do not take part in the GPHG Awards. Focusing on the nominations for the Men’s Complication award, it is only really between two and that is Parmigiani Fleurier and Urban Jürgensen. For the model’s simplicity in aesthetics and complexity in movement, we believe Parmigiani Fleurier will win this award.
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar "150th Anniversary"
Key Features:
- ✓Case: 41mm Titanium
- ✓Dial: Sapphire dial
- ✓Function: Moon phase, Date, Month, Perpetual calendar
Iconic
Specification: watches stemming from an emblematic collection or model that has been exercising a lasting influence on watchmaking history and the watch market for more than 20 years or offering a contemporary reinterpretation.
Prediction: Breguet Classique Souscription 2025
Favourite Watches & Round-up: Here is another tough one to call with this award potentially being between four watches. Andersen Genève’s story in creating world time pieces is engraved into the brand’s identity which is quite simply iconic. Audemars Piguet’s entry for this award should have swapped around with the Royal Oak “150th Anniversary” with their new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar changing the QP game through the “all in-one crown” with the “150th Anniversary” Openworked piece celebrating the predecessor of such an iconic perpetual calendar which could have cost Audemars Piguet from potentially winning both awards. Piaget’s Andy Warhol Watch is a timeless classic which pays tribute to the iconic model worn by pop artist, Andy Warhol. This year, Breguet released the best Iconic timepiece that was inspired by and pays homage to pocket watches created by Abraham Louis-Breguet but has managed to really convey what Breguet is all about in one simple and elegant wristwatch.
Tourbillon
Specification: mechanical watches comprising at least one tourbillon. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
Prediction: Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Favourite Watches & Round-up: Whilst our prediction to win the Tourbillon award is Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo, it is not our favourite. We are huge fans of Czapek’s Antartique Tourbillon in fact Czapek’s story overall and Louis Vuitton’s unique, compelling tourbillon piece which is truly like no other. But typically, awards are given to record breakers as Bvlgari has created the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch at just 1.85mm thick. This makes it incredibly difficult to ignore what Bvlgari has created with a tourbillon complication so it is kind of their award to lose.
Mechanical Exception
Specification: watches featuring a special mechanism, such as an innovative or sophisticated display, an automaton, a striking or any other acoustic function, a special escapement, a belt-driven movement or comprising another original and/or exceptional horological concept.
Prediction: Louis Vuitton Escale Au Pont-Neuf
Favourite Watches & Round-up: This year’s Mechanical Exception category is very intriguing, as it should be. But there is no real competition with Louis Vuitton’s Escale Au Pont-Neuf featuring a minute repeater, a tourbillon and seven automaton animations, all achieved through the LFT AU14.03 calibre which is the most complex movement ever created by La Fabrique de Temps Louis Vuitton. Had it not been for Louis Vuitton’s pocket watch, then it could have been a close one with great wristwatches produced by Armin Strom and Hazemann & Monnin.
Chronograph
Specification: mechanical watches comprising at least one chronograph indication. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
Prediction: Angelus Chronograph Télémètre Yellow Gold
Favourite Watches & Round-up: Similar to the Men’s Complication, this Chronograph category is quite underwhelming. If you think about what modern chronograph watches should be then over half of these entries struggle to define that. Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Concepts are always a huge hit or miss with this one being a miss. Louis Monet’s 1816 has potential but aesthetically the model looks disproportionate with the sub-dials placed rather strangely and the pushers appearing too big for the case. H. Moser and Ming have at least created sporty chronograph pieces yet are quite unconventional in display. Hats off to Angelus and Andersen Genëve for creating beautiful, vintage-looking chronographs which are both compelling in functions - it is only really between these two.
Sports
Specification: watches linked to the world of sport, whose functions, materials and design are suited to physical exercise.
Prediction: Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF
Favourite Watches & Round-up: In response to the specification of this award, Chopard may run-away with this award producing an extremely sporty Alpine Eagle, crafted in ceramicised titanium making it the lightest watch ever in Chopard’s collection. Titanium’s physical properties means it is perfect for wearing whilst participating in physical exercise. A dark horse is Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda which is fairly similar to Chopard’s Alpine Eagle but is heavier because the model features a chronograph movement. Therefore, there is only one winner in our eyes.
Artistic Crafts
Specification: watches demonstrating exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enamelling, lacquering, engraving, guilloché (engine-turning), marquetry, skeleton-working, etc.
Prediction: Voutilainen 28GML SOUYOU
Favourite Watches & Round-up: This is a toss-up. When it comes down to artistic crafts then ultimately it is determined on personal taste as every watch in this category has perfectly nailed the brief. Hermès’ creation defines what the luxury house is producing in watchmaking, Louis Vuitton has not only demonstrated high artistic craft but cleverly done so using a jump-hour mechanism and retrograde minute hand. Voutilainen has created a truly compelling lacquered dial that requires over a thousand hours of meticulous craft. This extraordinary creation is inspired by the work of Japanese lacquer artist Mr. Tatsuo Kitamura and even incorporates raw materials like tree sap. Truthfully, this could be anyone’s award and you can never knock one’s attempts in creating such beautiful and artistic watches.
“Petite Aiguille”
Specification: watches with a retail price between CHF 3,000 and CHF 10,000. Smartwatches are admissible in this category.
Prediction: Nomos Glashütte neomatick Worldtimer
Favourite Watches & Round-up: This is a really cool category that reminds enthusiasts that not all complicated watches have to be expensive and there are brands offering some fantastic timepieces for amazing value. Not too sure how to feel about smartwatches being part of this category or any award but the H. Moser Streamliner is fun. Christopher Ward has created their second only in-house movement with a very impressive power reserve of up to 144 hours and some really unique creations from Amida, M.A.D. Editions and Otsuka Lotec. However, Nomos is our overall favourite featuring a worldtime function which is very thin. The model’s versatility makes it one of the best affordable watches to date.
Challenge
Specification: watches with a retail price equal to or under CHF 3,000. Smartwatches are admissible in this category.
Prediction: Christopher Ward London C1 Celestial Moonphase x Mr Jones Watches
Favourite Watches & Round-up: Being a UK based company, specifically London, it is fantastic to see Christopher Ward repping us in the watch world as they are creating some truly magnificent timepieces at such an affordable price. Here, they have teamed up with Mr Jones Watches to create this extremely exclusive watch of only 300 pieces that features a really captivating illustrative dial design to create a moonphase.
This has been a really exciting year in watchmaking, anticipating a very intriguing awards show. Yes, we have been critical but congratulations to all brands and their watches for reaching the finals, especially to Audemars Piguet and Chopard who received the most nominations. But what is most important is the winner so we will see in a month’s time who picks up each award, and who will follow IWC’s Eternal Calendar in winning the “Aiguille d’Or.”
