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Every Patek Philippe bezel on this page is bespoke, set by hand with diamonds, emeralds or rubies for the Nautilus 5711, 5712 and 5980. The rounded octagonal bezel is the single most recognisable part of the Nautilus, the element Gerald Genta drew in 1976, which is why setting it with stones changes the watch so completely. Patek Philippe does make factory diamond Nautilus models, but they carry long waiting lists and very high prices. Time 4 Diamonds, established in London in 2005, sets gem bezels for owners of standard references who want that look on their own watch.
Patek Philippe bezels we stock
All of our Patek bezels are made to order rather than factory parts. We set white gold and rose gold bezels with brilliant-cut diamonds, green emeralds or red rubies, sized to the exact Patek Philippe Nautilus reference. Current stock covers the 5711, the 5712 and the 5980, with prices shown on each listing above. For the full range across brands, see our complete selection of watch bezels.
Emerald and green gem-set Nautilus bezels
The green emerald Nautilus is the look most people come to us for. We set the 5711 bezel with calibrated green emeralds in white gold, following the octagonal shape so the stones sit flush with the case lines. Emeralds are softer and more brittle than diamonds, so the cutting and setting have to be precise, which is why a well-set emerald bezel is harder to make than a diamond one. The finished bezel reads as deep green from across a room and pairs naturally with a green or blue Nautilus dial.
Diamond and ruby Nautilus bezels
Diamond bezels are the classic choice. We set the 5711, 5712 and 5980 with brilliant-cut diamonds in white gold or rose gold, matching the metal to the watch. For something less common, the 5711 can be set with red rubies in white gold, which gives a strong colour contrast against a dark dial. Each bezel is built for one reference, so a 5980 chronograph bezel will not fit a 5711. This work sits within our wider bespoke watches service.
Custom bezels by Nautilus reference
The three references we cover have different cases. The 5711 is the time and date Nautilus at 40mm. The 5712 adds a moon phase, date and power reserve and shares the 40mm case. The 5980 is the flyback chronograph in a slightly larger case. Because the bezel diameter and fixing differ between them, the reference number needs to be confirmed before any bezel is made. If your reference is not listed above, our watch customisation service can quote a bespoke bezel for it.
How the order process works
We start by confirming your Nautilus reference, the stone you want and the metal. We then set the bezel by hand and fit it to your watch or supply the finished bezel for fitting elsewhere. Lead time depends on the stones and the setting. Time 4 Diamonds is based in London and works with clients across the UK and the Middle East, where WhatsApp is the easiest way to share photographs and references. Message us on WhatsApp or use the contact page for a quote.
Frequently asked questions
Can you set an emerald bezel on a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711?
Yes. The green emerald 5711 bezel is one of our most requested pieces. We set calibrated emeralds in white gold to follow the octagonal case shape, then fit the bezel to your watch.
Do you sell factory or custom Patek Philippe bezels?
All of our Patek bezels are custom, set by hand to order. We do not supply factory Patek bezels. If you need a factory part, that has to come through Patek Philippe directly.
Which Nautilus references can you make a bezel for?
We currently hold or make bezels for the 5711, 5712 and 5980. Each bezel is built for one reference, so the exact model and diameter need to match.
How much does a custom Nautilus bezel cost?
Prices depend on the metal, the stone and the carat. They are shown on each listing above. Emerald, ruby and diamond bezels are priced separately because the stones and the setting time differ.
Does a gem-set bezel affect the watch warranty and value?
Setting an aftermarket bezel is outside the Patek Philippe warranty and changes the watch from its original specification, which affects resale to collectors who want unaltered pieces. Many owners accept this for a one-off look. We also set bezels for other brands, including our Rolex bezels range.


