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Rolex is the world’s most sought-after watch brand, highly regarded as the "King of Swiss Watches” due to their strong reputation and dominance in the horological space. Produced by the finest artisans, manufactured with high quality materials and complicated functions, Rolex watches showcase ultimate craftsmanship and luxury.
Every watch collector dreams of owning a Rolex watch yet that involves a lot of saving money and patience with the AD (Authorised Dealership.) While Rolex watches come at a hefty price, there are affordable models made accessible by the secondary market.
These consist of discontinued and vintage Rolex watches which are seen as decent investments with strong collector value, but most importantly are the most affordable if you are on a budget.
Despite their affordable price, the five Rolex models we have selected to collect in 2025 embodies the Swiss brand’s ethos as like every Rolex watch, you'll be paying for both luxury and quality, lasting for generations to come.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 114300
Introduced in BaselWorld 2015, Rolex released the Oyster Perpetual 39 reference 114300. Initially, the Swiss brand released a set of dials for this model, one being the famous and sought after “red grape” but more were produced after. Powering the Oyster Perpetual 39 is the Calibre 3132 which is special for featuring the Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers.
Additionally, the model is produced in Rolex’s patented Oystersteel which is a 904L stainless steel alloy, much stronger than the conventional 316L alloy. This higher grade of stainless steel is more durable, scratch and corrosion resistant demonstrating Rolex’s dedication to craftsmanship.
The Oyster Perpetual 39 featured some unique and stunning dials like the sought after red grape and dark rhodium but there are more plain options like black, white and blue that are versatile. Mainly, the grape and rhodium dials are viewed as collectible pieces due to their distinct aesthetics and investment potential. But, don’t let that stop you from buying a plainer option as they are still collectible and easier to wear due to the colours' versatility.
Buy Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 Steel Dark Rhodium Dial Steel 114300
- ▪Domed Bezel
- ▪Flat three-piece links Bracelet
- ▪Automatic Movement
Fortunately, the values are similar across all dials for the reference 114300, ranging from £5,000 to £7,000 which is extremely affordable for a Rolex watch. Especially due to the fact that collectors cherish the Oyster Perpetual 39 for its sheer simplicity, timeless design and reliability.
Rolex Explorer Reference 214270
Next, we have selected the Rolex Explorer reference 214270 which was introduced in 2010, discontinuing in 2021 following an 11-year production run which is very impressive. However, there are two different versions of this reference of the Explorer known as the “Mark 1” (2010-2015) or the “Mark 2” (2016-21.)
Whilst they share some similarities like the model’s 39mm case size and being produced in Oystersteel, halfway through this Explorer reference’s production run, the model received some alterations in the aesthetics of the dial.
From 2010 to 2015, the dial’s 3, 6 and 9 hour makers were manufactured out of 18CT white gold and lacked any lume making them appear darker. Additionally, the hands were short and small which led to enthusiasts and fanatics nicknaming the Mark 1, “T-Rex.”
In 2016, Rolex made changes to the hour markers and hands. The white gold 3, 6 and 9 hour markers were filled with Rolex’s patented Chromalight lume appearing brighter in the light and the striking blue shade in the dark. Rolex also made the hands proportionate with the minute hand stretching out to the minute track which is more conventional than the previous “T-Rex” hands which looked odd.
These changes from Rolex were viewed as upgrades, enhancing the aesthetics of the dial appearing sportier and brighter. Therefore, from a collector’s standpoint, we would suggest to opt for the Mark 2 variation as that was favoured massively over the Mark 1.
Buy Rolex Explorer 39mm Steel Black Dial Oyster 214270
- ▪Oyster bracelet with fold over clasp
- ▪Solid case back
- ▪Automatic Movement calibre 3132
In terms of prices, both the Mark 1 and Mark 2 are averaging at around £5,500 to £6,000 so ultimately, it comes down to preference.
Rolex Air-King Reference 116900
At the same time as the Explorer “Mark 2’s” release happened, the Crown launched a re-iteration of the Air-King at BaselWorld. This Air-King featured a 40mm case size and a distinctive black dial, inspired by Rolex’s own creation for Bloodhound SSC’s dashboards in 2014. The Bloodhound SSC is part of a British project, trying to break the world record for the quickest speed on land, pushing for a speed of over 1,000 mph.
Rolex, quite commonly, loves to be part of engineering and adventurous projects that break records. There are two popular examples. Firstly, Rolex sponsored Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzig Norgay’s Mount Everest expedition in 1953 with it being widely rumoured that Norgay wore a Rolex watch at the summit.
The second is Rolex’s involvement in James Cameron’s solo expedition of the deepest, known, part of the ocean called the Challenger Deep in the Mariana Trench where the Swiss brand attached a 50mm Sea-Dweller to Cameron’s submersible. The model successfully withstanded up to 11,000m of water pressure, demonstrating Rolex’s commitment to pioneering new technology for waterproofness.
Focusing on the Air-King reference 116900, it was discontinued in 2022, replaced by the reference 126900 - an updated version featuring refined aesthetics and a new movement. However, its collectible desires stems from the interesting history surrounding this model, even giving it the nickname “Bloodhound” due to its link to the Bloodhound SSC project.
The differences between the two references include internal and external changes. Inside the 40mm Oyster case was the popular Calibre 3131 but powering the newer 126900 reference is the Calibre 3230. Whilst the Calibre 3230 is a definite upgrade in performance, the Calibre 3131 is a very popular movement, also found in the Milgauss, known for its magnetic resistance of up to 1,000 gauss.
There are more differences, but the key changes rely on the aesthetics of the Oyster case. The case shape in the newer 126900 reference is sharper and refined with angular case bands and flat, shorter lugs. In addition to this, the reference 126900 is the first ever Air-King to feature crown guards.
Buy Rolex Air-King Steel Black Dial Watch 116900
- ▪Black dial with Chromalight blue luminescence
- ▪Steel Oyster bracelet with oyster fold over clasp
- ▪Automatic Movement calibre 3131
So whilst the recent reference seems to be a technical upgrade with refined features, some collectors like the simplicity of the 116900 due to its solid and vintage aesthetic. The Air-King reference 116900’s prices on the secondary market start from £5,000 which is a perfect example of an affordable Rolex watch to collect in 2025.
Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust Reference 17000
(Image taken from Wind Vintage)
This year, Rolex shocked the horological world in launching their brand-new model the Land-Dweller at Watches and Wonders. Powering the Land-Dweller is Rolex’s new innovative Calibre 7135 which features the Swiss brand’s patented and revolutionary Dynapulse escapement to achieve precision, efficiency and accuracy. But what if we told you that the model was potentially inspired by a quartz piece…
The aesthetics of the Land-Dweller are extremely identical to a special Rolex quartz watch. Enter the Oysterquartz! During the 1970s, Swiss watchmaking was under pressure from the rise in quartz watches which are simply timepieces powered by a battery.
Fortunately, Swiss watchmaking was revived through the release of various mechanical and sporty stainless steel watches like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus.
But Rolex released a quartz watch of their own in an attempt to compete with brands from USA and Japan who were the first to produce battery-powered watches. Using their beautiful craftsmanship, Rolex created a luxury quartz watch, naming the model Oysterquartz, even incorporating functions like the date and day-date into the watch.
Similar to the Royal Oak, the Oysterquartz features a beautiful integrated bracelet and angular case shape which is a clear inspiration from Gérald Genta’s design. In comparison to cheaper quartz watches, Rolex created an in-house quartz movement to power the Oysterquartz.
The main two Oysterquartz movements are the Calibre 5035 and Calibre 5055 which powers the Oysterquarts Datejust and Day-Date, respectively. Every Oysterquartz movement was chronometer-certified by the COSC (Contrôle Officiel des Suisses Chronomètres) which ensures the reliability, precision and accuracy of the Oysterquartz.
The Oysterquartz has become a solid collectible Rolex watch with only around 25,000 pieces produced during its tenure in the catalogue from 1977 to the early 2000s with only around 1,000 models produced each year.
We have selected the stainless steel Oysterquartz Datejust reference 17000 which is one of the most affordable models featuring different dial configurations with prices starting from £3,500, averaging at around £4,000 depending on the condition and whether the model comes with the box and papers.
Rolex Milgauss Reference 116400GV
The last affordable Rolex watch to collect in 2025 is the Rolex Milgauss reference 116400GV. The Milgauss collection was originally launched in the 1950s, specifically made for scientists due to the model’s resistance against magnetic fields. The Crown re-introduced the Milgauss in 2007 with the reference 116400GV featuring the Calibre 3131 and black dial.
As mentioned already, the Calibre 3131 is popular for its resistance to magnetic fields of up to 1,000 gauss. Now, compare that to regular mechanical movements which can be compromised by magnetic fields averaging from 50 to 100 gauss. But, there were some interesting additions exclusive to the Milgauss reference 116400GV.
Rolex incorporated a vibrant orange lightning-bolt second hand and a unique green-tinted sapphire crystal glass which is referred to in the model’s reference number through the letters “GV” (Glase Verte.) This green-tented sapphire crystal is extremely time consuming for Rolex to produce, only intended for aesthetic purposes.
Initially, the Crown unveiled this model paired with a black dial but they later brought out a stunning “Z-Blue” dial which pops vibrantly due to its sunburst finish. Out of the two configurations, the blue dial is more popular due to its distinctive look but comes at a higher price whilst the black dial is still desirable, holding collector’s value and sustains a lower value on the secondary market making it more affordable.
Buy Rolex Milgauss Stainless Steel Black Dial Green Glass 116400GV
- ▪Black / Orange and white hour markers / Orange second hand
- ▪Stainless steel strap / Case
- ▪Automatic Movement
The blue dial Milgauss’s prices range from £8,000 to £11,000, averaging at around £9,000 to £9,500 whereas the much affordable alternative is the black dial configuration, valued on the secondary market at roughly £7,000 but you can pick one up for less. Therefore, the 116400GV paired with the black dial is a solid affordable Rolex watch to collect in 2025.
In regards to collecting a Milgauss, we would suggest to solely focus on the “GV” reference as there is the 116400 featuring the black dial without the green-tinted sapphire crystal. What makes the Milgauss collectible is this green glass because it is completely unique to the model.
