AUDEMARS PIGUET’S “FIRST SEMESTER 2025 NOVELTIES": MESMERISING QP INNOVATIONS, AN ANNIVERSARY PERPETUAL CALENDAR ‘SKELETON,’ THE CODE 11.59 SEES NEW MODELS
Releases. A word so prevalent around this time of year in the horological world as watch enthusiasts prepare for upcoming releases from luxury brands. Whilst brands like Rolex and Tudor will be unveiling their new models at Watches and Wonders on the 1st of April, some choose to release models in their own time. Enter Audemars Piguet who has released their “First Semester 2025 Novelties” showcasing some very special pieces.
2025 marks Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary, so there were high expectations and anticipations for what the brand would unveil this year. Further heightened by the shock discontinuation of the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel ‘Skeleton’ reference 15407 in stainless steel and rose gold. So, let's see what the Swiss luxury brand has to offer for this year.
Upping the Game, Audemars Piguet Once Again Innovates the Horological World with Advanced Ergonomic Treatment on their Perpetual Calendars
How can you enhance the efficiency in setting up a perpetual calendar? Well, Audemars Piguet have released three new models that have changed the perpetual calendar with an advanced movement: references 26674ST.OO.1320ST.01, 26674SG.OO.1320SG.01 and 26494BC.OO.D350KB.01, two Royal Oaks and one Code 11.59 respectively.
Here, Audemars Piguet demonstrates pure innovation through their brand new perpetual calendar movement, the calibre 7138. Gone are the days of pushers and buttons down the side of the case, instead an all-in-one crown with four intuitive positions that takes care of everything.
Position one (the neutral position) winds the watch then position two allows to change the date through a clockwise rotation and the month by an anti-clockwise rotation. Out one more time to position three which sets the time, with the last position activated by going back down to position two. This is what Audemars Piguet refers to as position 2b which is where you can set the date in a clockwise rotation and the moonphase indication in a counterclockwise rotation. In order to set a specific part of the watch, this sequence must be followed as you can’t miss a position out.
Reference 26674ST (pictured left) is in stainless steel with a beautiful blue dial utilising the ‘Grand Tapisserie’ pattern. Additionally released in Audemars Piguet’s stunning sand gold is reference 26674SG (pictured central), matched with a sand-gold toned dial which makes this, all-in-all, a mesmerising piece. The Code 11.59 reference 26494BC (pictured right) features an elegant white gold case with a striking smoked blue embossed dial.
Subtly, Audemars Piguet have made a key change in the readability of the full date. Before, the dial featured the American way of telling the date with the order being day, month then date. Now, this newer generation of the perpetual calendar shows the conventional way of telling the date in the order of day, date then month. The day display remains at 9 o’clock, the date display is shown at 12 o’clock and the month is placed at 3 o’clock- a change that Americans would dislike but the rest of the world would appreciate.
Once again, Audemars Piguet has delivered and whilst enthusiasts believed that the brand was declining in ideas, little did they know the brand has this project up their sleeves. Most definitely the best response to silence those who questioned them in these past few years and there remains no doubt as to why they deserve to be part of the ‘Holy Trinity’ in the horological world.
It’s not over yet for the calibre 5135 with the last of its kind Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary”
Usually, it is the tale of out with the old & in with the new but Audemars Piguet has given the calibre 5153 a proper send-off with an openworked perpetual calendar for their 150th anniversary reference 26585XT.OO.1220XT.01. This is the final model with the calibre 5135 and it is an absolute beauty, cast in titanium and Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG) with a skeletonised dial which is always an admirable touch.
Focusing on the dial, there is clear inspiration taken from Audemars Piguet’s platinum pocket watch, reference 25729 that honoured the Royal Oak’s 20th anniversary. Overall, a beautiful piece that combines multiple features, part of Audemars Piguet’s identity and history giving the calibre 5135 the right send-off.
Two Additions to the Offshore Collection, “The Beast” is Back
The Royal Oak Offshore sees two new models added to the current collection; a piece in black ceramic and something in green. Starting with the new Royal Oak Offshore in black ceramic, reference 26238CE.OO.1300CE.02. In 2023, Audemars Piguet released the 26238CE.OO.1300CE.01 to celebrate the Offshore’s 20th anniversary which was the brand’s first-ever black ceramic watch where the case was pieced with a matching bracelet.
The only real difference is that this newer updated reference features the Mega Tapisserie dial whereas the previous version included the Petite Tapisserie dial. Still, this model showcases the classic round pushers for the chronograph function, a detail that pays tribute to the original in 1993.
Also, there is a green and black ceramic Offshore piece, reference 26420CE.OO.A063VE.01 that showcases a black ceramic case and green ceramic bezel, pushers and crown.
The Code 11.59 Collection Is Extended Further
Five new additions for the Code 11.59 ranging from very simple pieces to insane dial work. Starting with the two Code 11.59 models that are on the simpler side are references 15210S T.OO.A348KB.01 and 26393ST.OO.A009KB.01
Both 41mm models have different functionalities; reference 15210ST is a time and date watch whilst the 26393ST includes a chronograph. Visually, they look very similar being produced in stainless steel with a grey embossed dial with a blue inner bezel and grey rubber coated strap.
Following on from that is the flashy and elegant reference 26665SG.ZZ.D209CR.01, cast in Audemars Piguet’s 18ct sand gold adorned with 235 brilliant-cut diamonds set into the lugs, mid-case and crown. Placed at 6 o’clock is a tourbillon movement achieved through the ultra slim calibre 2969 movement.
Lastly, two new Carillon Supersonnerie models released in alignment with the 150th anniversary of Audemars Piguet, references 26397QS.OO.D002KB.01 and 26397OR.OO.D417CR.01. Both incredible pieces released from Audemars Piguet blending their patented Supersonnerie technology and Carillon Minute Repeating Complication with modern designs.
The 26397QS is cast in 18ct sand gold with a black ceramic mid-case and an engraved case-back of the anniversary logo and a mouth-watering skeletonised dial. Secondly, the reference 26397OR which showcases insane dialwork from Audemars Piguet called the harlequin opal dial that is sparkling with bright colours. Unique patterns enhanced with iridescent hues with a green background that is matched by a green alligator leather strap.
Overall Thoughts on this First Set of Releases from Audemars Piguet
When an anniversary of a brand comes around, there are high expectations surrounding what will be unveiled for the watch world. The main question is: Has Audemars Piguet delivered? Our answer is absolutely. Creating an all-in-one crown for their perpetual calendars would have been enough because it's an example of masterful work which changes the QP game massively. Now, we will be waiting for an answer from Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin in ways they can combat this.
