An Insight into Rolex’s Secret Catalogue and why Customisation is the Solution for Off-Catalogue Rolex Watches Featuring our Custom Rolex Daytona “Rainbow, Daytona “Eye of the Tiger” & Yacht-Master “Cotton Candy”
Did you know Rolex has a secret catalogue for exclusive watches? If you are a true horological fanatic or enthusiast, then this is no hidden gem but for those who possess a basic understanding of timepieces will not know of this.
For decades, Rolex has released watches that have appeared on the wrists of celebrities and public figures that are unknown to ordinary people, pieces that nobody has ever seen before. These are known as off-catalogue pieces.
What are off-catalogue Rolex watches?
Simply, off-catalogue Rolex watches are pieces that are not part of Rolex’s collections as seen on their website but instead, they are offered to VIP clientele with a rich history of spending with Rolex’s ADs (Authorised Dealers).
Usually, off-catalogue watches feature rare materials like ceramic and gemstones such as diamonds and sapphires that require the finest craftsmanship, yet off-catalogue pieces can also be plain without the addition of materials or gemstones but instead have been created due to a sentimental reason like an anniversary.
In recent years, there have been multiple off-catalogue Rolex watches surfacing the market and worn by famous figures such as Kevin Hart, Michael Jordan, Lionel Messi and Mark Wahlberg. Whilst ordinary customers can’t gain access to this hidden Rolex catalogue of hidden pieces, they turn to customisation using an authentic Rolex model and aftermarket parts in order to create an identical piece for a fraction of the price.
A Simple Guide in Understanding Off-Catalogue References
Whilst there aren’t various references for off-catalogue pieces, we are certain that there are most likely some off-catalogue pieces hidden in the depths of Rolex’s secrets. Count that as one of our own conspiracy theories. Here is a list that features the suffixes commonly included in the references of most off-catalogue pieces:
RBOW: Simply, this is an abbreviation for rainbow which is the most popular suffix for off-catalogue watches.
TBR: This reference stands for Tisselatte Brilliants which is French and denotes that there are only diamonds featured in the watch, more specifically baguette-cut diamonds.
SABR: Next is the SABR suffix which stands for Saphirs Brillants meaning a combination of sapphire gemstones and diamonds.
SARU: Sticking to the inclusion of sapphires, following up is the SARU reference signifying that sapphires and rubies feature.
SACO: The last sapphire reference is the SACO which stands for Saphirs Cognac highlighting the use of orange sapphires which are an extremely striking sight and because of this, it is easy to assume as to why Rolex gave these specific gemstones their own reference.
EMBR: Finally, there is the EMBR suffix which depicts the use of emeralds and diamonds which is only to have appeared on one Rolex model - the Submariner Date reference.
The Most Popular Off-Catalogue Rolex Watches
How people deter Rolex watches are through the use of nicknames such as a Daytona “Panda” or Submariner “Starbucks” which works exactly the same for off-catalogue Rolex watches. Despite the fact that ordinary people are highly unlikely to get their hands on these exclusive Rolex timepieces, the horological community still continues to connect nicknames to them.
One example is the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” which is the most well-known off-catalogue piece produced by the Swiss brand. Crafted in 18ct rose, yellow and white gold with different dial configurations like a mother of pearl dial or pavé diamond dial, the Daytona “Rainbow” is the most widely documented off-catalogue piece. The main feature is the beautiful bezel that features 36 baguette-cut sapphire gemstones in a mesmerising rainbow format that immediately catches the eye.
Not every off-catalogue Rolex watch has to feature gem-settings though. Another very popular off-catalogue example is the Rolex Daytona “Le Mans” which was first released by Rolex in 2023 to celebrate two anniversaries: the 70th anniversary of the Rolex Daytona and the 100th anniversary of the 24 hour Le Mans racing competition. Since its first release in 2023, there have been three different Daytona “Le Mans” models: one in white gold reference 126529LN (2023-24), the second in yellow gold reference 126528LN (2024-25) and the third in rose gold reference 126525LN (2025-).
Initially, the white gold Daytona “Le Mans” was not an off-catalogue piece and whilst it is unknown as to why the model was discontinued, the main assumption was because of the demand and heightened secondary market prices. From the dates attached to each Daytona “Le Mans,” you can see that the white gold and yellow gold versions were only in production for a year with the rose gold piece newly released this year and judging how the predecessors of the rose gold Daytona “Le Mans” lasted in production, we predict the rose gold piece to be discontinued next year.
Why Customisation is the Solution for Creating Off-Catalogue Rolex Pieces
As established, the ordinary person cannot obtain an off-catalogue Rolex timepiece, even one of high spending and strong relationship with the AD will struggle to get their hands on one of Rolex’s hidden pieces. After all, some off-catalogue pieces are extremely sought after like the Daytona Rainbow, so what do customers turn to?
From taboo to trend: enter the beauty of customisation, an extremely helpful tool in creating identical or inspired off-catalogue watches. Customisation can help those who want an off-catalogue piece but instead of going through the lengthy process with the AD, customers can buy a custom piece using high quality gemstones and diamonds, resulting in something that looks extremely identical for a fraction of the price.
Custom requests from our customers heavily rely on inspiration taken from off-catalogue pieces to produce their own customised version. Only the finest specification of gemstones and diamonds are used for our custom pieces so that customers feel a close taste to the factory-set version. A proven history of producing excellence for customers is well-known at Time4Diamonds, so let’s take a look at some examples our expert team of artisans and gemologists have created.
Custom Daytona “Rainbow”
Similar to how this is Rolex’s most popular and sought after off-catalogue timepiece, this is our highest requested piece from customers. Featuring in our custom Daytona “Rainbow” are 36 hand-picked sapphire gemstones, VS1 round brilliant-cut natural white diamonds on the shoulders of the Daytona case and an option of dial choices ranging from diamond hour markers, sapphire gemstone hour markers following the rainbow pattern or a pavé diamond dial. This is an absolutely stunning piece that excites and satisfies customers without fail; an exemplar of our custom work.
Custom Daytona “Eye of the Tiger”
In recent years, Rolex have been very adventurous in both plain and gem-set watches: plain wise, the Swiss brand have explored audacious dial designs like the Oyster Perpetual “Celebration” which features colourful bubbles over a light blue dial with another example being the Day-Date “Puzzle” that includes jigsaw pieces over a light blue or orange dial. Referring to off-catalogue pieces, Rolex have created some wild and audacious watches like the Daytona “Eye of the Tiger” reference 116588TBR. What looks like a very busy watch infers to pose a challenge for our masterful artisans but the result was magnificent…
Our custom piece features 36 VVS baguette-cut natural white diamonds set into the 18-carat yellow gold bezel with a mesmerising dial. There are diamonds set into the black dial to resemble the fur of a tiger along with diamond-set hour markers. This is a fine demonstration of the lengths our team of artisans can go to, defining what might be impossible to craft truly possible.
Custom Yacht-Master “Cotton Candy”
The latest example of our stunning custom work is our Custom Yacht-Master “Cotton Candy” which takes inspiration from the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 reference 126679SABR. As identified, the SABR suffix stands for Saphirs Brillants meaning the combination of sapphires and diamonds. In 2022, Rolex introduced this off-catalogue white gold Yacht-Master with pink, purple and blue sapphires and diamonds set into the bezel with the addition of diamonds set into the shoulders and case.
Although many examples of this off-catalogue Yacht-Master are seen with a plain black dial, albeit not a lot, there are models with a pavé diamond dial which was involved in this client’s request. Using the finest hand-picked diamonds and gemstones, our skilled gem setters applied the same specification of gemstones and VS1 baguette-cut natural white diamonds into the bezel. Additionally, a perfectly diamond-set dial to finalise the client’s request. Since this project, due to the excellent finish of this piece, interests were raised and many more requests followed.
Closing the Gap between Factory-Set Watches & Custom Pieces
Whilst factory-set diamond or gemstone Rolex watches are in a league of their own, there is absolutely no problem in creating and producing custom versions that take inspiration from factory-set pieces. Especially when the specification and quality of stones used are of a high quality, then the difference in production is lessened.
Moreover, customisation can be beneficial in getting the desired piece a customer really wants as some off-catalogue pieces are restricted to one model. For instance, the Yacht-Master “Cotton Candy” is only available in a 40mm case size, not a 37mm or 42mm. Whereas, customisation allows the possibility of obtaining a piece that suits and fits your needs.
So overall, the distance between factory and custom watches is narrowing as what used to be a tentative and forbidden subject is becoming a solution.
